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Reloading

Group is dedicated to those who reload there own Ammunition and those who wish to learn.

Members: 15
Latest Activity: Dec 29, 2013

Reloading Basics

Albert Linegar -Reloading Administrator




Intro:
So you want to start loading your own ammunition. Good! There are many good reasons to Reload your own Ammunition, including saving money on ammo and achieving the maximum accuracy potential of your firearms. Reloading is a fun hobby, and can become just as addictive as shooting! Loading your own ammunition is a fairly simple process, once you understand the tools and supplies needed, the steps in the process, and how to go about the process safely. This Article is meant to introduce the beginning reloader to these concepts and hopefully answer some of the frequently asked questions.

 

Equipment:

  1. Press: There are a few different types of reloading presses available. These include single stage, turret, and fully progressive presses. The main difference between these types, is the speed in which ammunition can be reloaded. In using a single stage press, one "stage" of the reloading process is completed at one time, as the press holds only one die. The die must the swapped out before moving on to the next step. Many people prefer these presses for reloading precision rifle ammunition. Turrett presses and progressive presses, on the other hand, hold all of the dies needed, which means the user does not have to stop the reloading process to swap and re-adjust dies. Generally, a turret press will allow more rounds to be loaded per hour than a single stage, while a fully progressive press will be faster than either of the two aforementioned types. It's up to you to decide which press is right for you based on your budget and the amount of ammunition you plan to reload in a sitting. At first, you should be taking things slowly, but that is no reason to rule out one of the faster presses. You can operate them in a single stage mode until you feel more comfortable, and still have the option of speeding things up down the road.
  2. Dies: The dies are inserted into the press and are what allows the reloader to resize the brass, remove the spent primer, flare the case mouth, seat the bullet, and in some cases, place a crimp around the bullet. There are many manufacturers who produce quality reloading dies. Just be sure to get the right dies for the caliber you're reloading!
  3. Case Tumbler: A case tumbler, along with brass cleaning media (usually ground corncob or walnut shells), offers an easy, effective way to clean brass prior to putting it through the reloading process. This is generally done for two reasons. The most important is to remove dirt and grime which can damage or "gum up" your dies. The other is to enable you to produce shiny, visually pleasing ammunition. It is also easier to spot case defects on clean brass. Tumblers are available anywhere reloading equipment is sold, and they all do the job. Select yours based on the number of cases you'll want to clean in a batch. Avoid using brass polishes which contain ammonia, as this can weaken the brass.
  4. Case Trimmer: This applies mainly to rifle brass.
  5. Powder Measure: You will need to be able to accurately measure and dispense the appropriate charge (weight in grains) of powder for your ammunition. Powder measures are either stand alone units or units that attach to the press and are actuated by the case. Certain measures work best with certain types of powders.  In general though, any quality powder measure will provide acceptable results with a wide range of powders.
  6. Powder Scale: It is vitally important to spend the money on a good quality scale! You MUST be able to verify that your powder measure is dispensing an accurate, consistent powder charge into your cases! Either a balance beam type or digital scale will do the job, just please, don't skimp here. . . buy quality!
  7. Calipers: You'll need a set of calipers to take various measurements, including case trim length and overall cartridge length. These are available in both dial and digital configurations. Both work, with digital being a bit quicker to read.
  8. Case Lubricant: This only applies to bottleneck (usually rifle) cases. Bottleneck cases must be lubed prior to resizing in order to avoid the case becoming stuck in the die under the pressure of the resizing process. 
  9. Various Case Preparation Tools: There are a few other case preparation tools, some that you need, and some that aren't necessary, but can be added later. After trimming, case mouths need to be deburred. The tool that is used to deburr the case mouth will generally also chamfer the inside of the case mouth. Chamfering allows for easier insertion of the bullet in a rifle case.
  10. RELOADING MANUAL: This is VERY important. It is vital for any reloader, especially a beginner, to own and read a quality reloading manual. It is actually beneficial to own at least two, in order to compare load data from one to the other. The reloading manual will generally be used to look up load data for your caliber including powder charge, overall cartridge length, case trim length, etc. Reloading manuals are also full of various other useful pieces of information. It is generally a good idea to cross reference load data from at least two different manuals before beginning the process of reloading. BEFORE YOU UNBOX YOUR EQUIPMENT AND SET UP YOUR BENCH, READ YOUR RELOADING MANUAL FROM COVER TO COVER.
  11. Eye protection: It's a good idea to wear safety glasses while reloading. Primers can ignite if handled improperly.

Discussion Forum

Most often asked question about reloading shotshells

Started by albert linegar. Last reply by albert linegar Sep 26, 2013. 5 Replies

  Of all the questions  that are asked  about reloading , I would have to say that the most frequently asked is " What are the start-up costs. The simplest answer to this question is "I don't know".…Continue

Components Availability

Started by Fred Woodman. Last reply by Fred Woodman Mar 21, 2013. 7 Replies

Is anyone else noticing that reloading components are becoming tough to come by. its almost impossible to find anything in 223Continue

Beginner reloader in Central

Started by Jeremy Ball. Last reply by Fred Woodman Feb 7, 2013. 7 Replies

Hello. I am interested in learning to reload rifle ammo, specifically .222 and 6.5x55. Is there anyone in Central that would be interested in showing me the ropes? ThanksContinue

Basic Procedure Of Reloading Rifle Ammunition.....

Started by Edward Smith. Last reply by leo carns Nov 24, 2011. 1 Reply

 You have your equipment. You've READ YOUR MANUAL, and you're ready to start.The process isn't rocket science. It does require you to pay attention to what you're doing, however. A mistake at the…Continue

Comment Wall

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Comment by albert linegar on December 29, 2013 at 7:46pm

 Just wondering if anyone has tried reloading American E shot in shotgun shells . It is a new type of shot from Reloading Specialties inc. and is soft like lead and can be loaded with lead recipes . RSI says it is heaver than lead. I am interested in trying some of it but would line some first hand info on it first . Any help in this regard would be appreciated. Thanks in advance .

                                    Albert.

Comment by Fred Woodman on January 4, 2012 at 9:17pm

"Here in the lead free portion of CA, we've found, as did Barnes, that the 50gn Varmint Grenades won't work in a 14 twist. Barnes even says so on the box and in the manual. Barnes recommends that they be used in a in a 9 twist or tighter. Save them for your AR. If you check the length of the 50gr Grenade, I think you will find it as long or longer than the 70 gr lead bullets":

 

found this on another site.They should be fine in most 223 as they tend to be faster twists varying from 1:12 and faster

Comment by Fred Woodman on January 4, 2012 at 9:05pm

??? 1:14 twist is a slow twist.You must be loading a 22-250 how much velocity ??

I say its the speed not the twist

Comment by leo carns on January 4, 2012 at 7:57pm

DO NOT load varmint grenades in barrells with a 1:14 twist or faster they disintergrate when leaving the barrell

Comment by leo carns on April 24, 2011 at 8:35pm
I load my own 22-250,243,300wsm and have never had a problem and get a better group than using store bought ammo
Comment by Fred Woodman on March 6, 2011 at 11:57pm
yes but some complain about pressure signs in hot weather.The age old 380 load is 38 grains for a 22-250 thats how the powder got its name. Varget has worked well for me. I like the extruded better than the balls
Comment by Kirk Mclean on March 6, 2011 at 9:26pm
H380 sounds good  from some of the articles in reloading books.
Comment by Fred Woodman on March 6, 2011 at 5:27pm
what powders do you have..? There several tried and proven reloads for the 22-250 As always work your way up slowly. Varget, 4064 and H380 always work well for me
Comment by Kirk Mclean on March 6, 2011 at 5:03pm
any good reloads for the 22-250 with the hornady 52 grain a- max bullet
Comment by Fred Woodman on January 17, 2011 at 11:37am
I reload quite a few rifle bullets. I havent loaded shotshells in years but I have some supplies for shotshells that I might be willing to sell. I have some powders, primers shot ( 4 ,6 and 7 1/2)
 

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